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Su's Travel Pages (New Zealand 2)

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Su's Page

Travel

..New Zealand 1
New Zealand #2.New Zealand 2
..New Zealand 3
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Dances with Poi's
Traditional Maori Poi dance at Rakeiao Marae
Photo: P.McKenzie

(Excerpts from my travel diary)
Week Two

Rotorua and surrounding areas
We travelled on to Roturua through some absolutely fabulous scenery, I was getting used to the sight of Australian Blue Gums (trees to you, nothing to do with teeth or anything) and the fact that there weren't very many people here to crowd everything out. 

Rotorua is sat right on top of a very volcanic area; you know you are getting near when you start craving egg and cress sarnies, that's because of the smell of sulphur and it is everywhere!  But the smell is so mild it is almost pleasant and in fact you soon ignore it altogether.

We stayed at the Tannoch Brae which was a nice motel and splashed out NZ$20 on a discount card which gave us entrance to several places nearby at a .... er discount really. 

We traipsed off to the government gardens and the Roturua museum which detailed some history of the area and how Victorians used to come here to relax in the hot mineral baths. The water comes out of the ground at around 100 degrees centigrade so it's best to add some cold ... no really.  There was an interesting display about the Mt Tarawerea volcano which erupted with a bang that was felt 200kms away in Auckland on 10th July 1886 at 12.30am in the morning.  A Maori village was buried and lots of stuff mummified, a bit like Pompeii (only without the rude murals!).

Later that evening we went for a traditional Maori hangi (see hangi page).  This took us to Rakeiao Marae (near where the Queen stays when she's in NZ apparently) on the shores of Lake Rotiti and was very pretty.  It is well worth going to one of these, this was quite reasonably priced about NZ$45 each (about £18 at the time).  For this you get dancing, entertainment and of course food.  The only minus was that we had to travel around Rotorua in the coach picking everyone up and then dropping them off afterwards.

The next day we visited the Rainbow Springs Trout farm. Here, you can wander around a tropical forest complete with silver ferns (the NZ national plant, like a leak in Wales... no not that kind of leak!)  One trout pool had glass sides to see the fish swimming around, which is a bit scary for us fish phobics (no - don't laugh I said!) 

The farm show at the agriculture centre next-door was good fun and if you are feeling really annoying you can volunteer your friends for things like churning cream (very hard work) or lamb feeding.   Hoorah! I finally saw some sheep!  Of special note are the souvenir shops here and at the Rainbow springs complex, which offer the widest variety of gifts and merchandise of any place we visited during the entire trip. Here you can buy some beautiful Paui shell (like abalone shell) jewellery and sheep skin rugs, Traditional Maori carvings and a whole lot more!

Champagne Pool at Waiotapu
The Champagne Pool at Waiotapu
Photo: S.Lawrence

The highlight of the week for me was a visit to Waiotapu (which means 'Place of sacred waters').  This is the most colourful volcanic area in New Zealand.  The smell was amazing; an acrid sulphur and brimstone smell that sits in the back of your throat.  We visited on a hot sunny day which in retrospect may have been a bit of an oversight.  There were lots of open pits full of bubbling mud, all surrounded by hot streams.  The pits and lakes have names such as 'The Devil's Home' and 'The Artist's Palette'.  (The colours are arsenic and other nice things). 

My favourite was the Champagne pool; a huge crater formed 900 years ago with the water at a scalding 74 degrees centigrade  The way to get there was to walk on a spindly bridge over the hot water; very nerve racking.

This was an absolutely amazing place which words cannot describe.  If you get a chance to visit NZ don't miss this out!  Unfortunately we missed the Lady Knox geyser nearby as she only blows off once a day (er maybe I should put that in a different way).

Taupo and Tongariro National Park
We travelled south even further on our way to Lake Taupo. Just outside the town of Taupo is the world famous Huka Falls (Full name is Hukanui, meaning 'great mass of foam')  See photo on Su's Page.  It's indescribable, the sheer volume and force of water, the colour, the ground vibrating........etc etc  Fact file: Over 400 rivers flow into Lake Taupo, but only ONE river flows out.  At peak times 200 cubic metres of water flow over the Falls every second!  These bare facts cannot describe this phenomenon the only way is to visit it!

We arrived in Taupo on a Monday and everything seemed to be shut that evening.  But we found a great restaurant/bar called Bogarts which I heartily recommend.   Try the 3 different kinds of chips (potato, pumpkin and kumara - a Kiwi sweet potato).  For some reason the Kiwis seem to think Kumara chips are great with a garlic sour cream dip.... yep they're right!

Turangi is next further south and we stayed at the Creel Lodge Motel, it's next to the Tongariro River and very reasonably priced. We were in the depths of the Tongariro National Park.  The mountains are bleak and majestic including the famous live volcano Mt Ruapehu with steam billowing out of the crater and assorted fumaroles.  We headed south 50km and visited the desert, but to me it looked like moor-land rather than desert.  The army use it as a training ground apparently and people have wandered off, got lost and died up here.

The distinctive crater of Mt Ruapehu
The live volcano, Mt Ruapehu
Photo: P.McKenzie

We drove up a mountain which we blithely assumed was Mount Tongariro (which means carried on the South wind).  We found out later that it was actually Mount Ruapehu a live volcano which erupted 3 months before and after our holiday!  It's aprox. 5,000 feet high and much colder at the top, even in summer.

Unfortunately the car didn't understand the meaning of the word 'cold' and promptly overheated or as Phil said, "Yes it understood the word cold - what it didn't understand was the meaning of the words low oxygen" ... whoops!  At the top was a skiing village; I felt a bit dizzy and things looked closer than they were due to the thin air which takes a bit of getting used to.   

We hit some bad weather, rain and wind. Determined not to be put off we visited Te Whakarewarewa (no don't arsk me how you pronounce it I still don't know okay) Thermal Reserve with craft centre.  The reserve is a series of pathways between lakes, geysers etc.  They are pretty impressive, bubbling, spitting and whooshing. These are more active than Lady Knox and blow off every 20 minutes or so.   Although, when we went the geysers were competing with the rain and wind and everything was overly steamy.

In the Maori village we purchased some corn-on-the-cob, cooked in a nearby mineral pool (the water was so hot it only took a minute or two).  Those sparrows are here as well and pinch the corn straight out of our hands!   (Either it's one very entrepreneurial flock or the sparrows here have an easy time of it). 

Also worth a visit is the Jade Centre in Roturoa where you can watch the craftsmen carving pendants and statues.

 

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